We didn’t want to wait until 2pm but used the break to check the air filter of our Mercedes-Benz. Occasionally on this and the previous tours the motor had problems accelerating. On the 3rd day of this tour it was worse than ever and we wouldn’t have been able to continue our trip like this
Previously I had checked all oil levels and got the better more expensive fuel but the air filter was something I hadn’t done yet. According the manual there should be a meter notifying us if it has to be replaced or not, but that specific meter didn’t exist in our model. So I found the air filter and took it out. Mercedes obviously believes that a car owner doesn’t do this, so there were no instructions in the manual and it was more difficult than necessary to get the filter out. After cleaning everything as good as possible and putting it all together again, the motor ran smoothly again and didn’t have any more problems for the rest of the trip. What a relief!

Unfortunately the town with just 5322 inhabitants (2006) is a town in decay. Many houses are in a bad condition and on the edge of collapsing. It could be a charming French countryside town. With the Fosse Dionne, the Sankt-Pierre church high above the town (not open to the public), the Hôpital Notre-Dame and some small stores and cafes it could be popular among tourists.

On our way to Tonnerre we drove through the vineyards of the Chablis, the northernmost wine district of the Burgundy region. In April there isn’t much to see yet but it is always nice to see where some products come from.

For the night we stopped in Gurgy, which is a small town north of Auxerre. Here there is a lovely camper park directly next to the Yonne river. We arrived early enough to enjoy the warm weather outside and went for a walk along the river and through the village.

Herbeumont has a large and quiet camper park and is just around the corner from Bouillon, a place we wanted to visit before going into France. It was almost midnight when we arrived and there were a lot of motorhomes already.

For us it was just a place to stay for the night, but if you want to stay longer, there is a castle ruin not far from the camper park, and a 6.9 km walking/biking path starts here, which goes through the valley of the Aise.

Before we could go I had to take our motorhome to a tire center to get the wheels aligned. This took longer than expected and in order to avoid the usual Dutch traffic jams, we decided to have dinner at home.

We made it through the smog and bumpy roads in Belgium and arrived back home in Almere, just in time for dinner. At home everything was fine and it was nice to have space and a warm place again with a hot shower.

In total we drove 5421 km during this tour (on average 387 per day), which is much more than our usual distance. In total we spent EUR 191 on freeway tolls in France and some in Spain as well. I hope that visitors from those countries will have to pay in Holland as well one day. We spent 4 nights on camp grounds and the other 9 on official camper parks. Because we spent more time on simple camper parks, we sometimes where short of electricity and should try to find a better solution for that. Our motorhome has solar panels but those are 10 years old and not as efficient as current models.

Looking back we probably wouldn’t do this tour again. The goal was to avoid the fireworks and get some sun and warmth. This year the south of Europe got much more cold and rainy weather than usual and there was basically no place to go. Traveling with our small motorhome in rainy and cold weather is not really fun. We did see some great place but in the end it would be better to save the money and vacation days for a different time of the year like early spring, but then we need a different solution for the firework issue. Staying in Almere is not an option.

Winter Tour 2008 - Day 13:

The route back to Holland was going through the region of the Loire valley. We have visited this area years ago and were looking forward to see it again.  First we tried the camper park in Châteauneuf-sur-Sarthe, directly next to the river. It is a pretty place but everything was closed and turned off, so no floating water or electricity. I tried to use the power convert in the camper to charge my notebook, but every time I turned the converter on it blew a fuse. Without a running notebook to edit photos and watch a movie we didn’t feel like staying there and went back a few kilometers to Briollay. In Briollay it was the same situation - a remote camper park without supplies. In Chenillé-Changé it looked like we were lucky as there was a power outlet next to the camper park which was being used for flickering Christmas lights. I connected the motor home but when I plugged-in the power adapter of my MacBook Pro, it blew this adapter and the main fuse of the motor home. Also the power convert got fried beyond repair. With an empty laptop battery, a broken power adapter and a destroyed power converter,  there wasn’t much left for us to do at night, so after having a good dinner we decided to keep on driving. Two hours and 186 km later we stopped in the village Gacé, which has a simple camper park in front of the town hall.

The enclosed and fortified village was founded around the Romanesque church of St Radegonde in 1284. In the summer this place must be packed with tourists but now we were almost alone walking through the tiny pedestrian-only streets between the small houses.